Travel Blog: Part 5 - Palau First Impressions

I had an idea what to expect, and I was wrong. I imagined a somewhat run-down version of a Hawaiian town, lush sure, but quiet and a little sad. If it was a person, it'd be someone who had spent too many days in the bar, and needed a good bath.

I thought it would be something nicer than the Philippines (the closest neighbouring country by the way) but not by much, after all it's too far out of the way, and would have an economy that was heavily dependant on imports for everything except sunburn and saltwater.

But as I said, I was wrong.

When I arrived in Palau last night, I'll admit a sense of fatigue and joy colored my observations. I was biased - pleased to have my outward journey over, and hopeful as what I'd find. I felt Palau was a country-village, and by that I don't mean a village in the country, rather it had the feel of a village who happens to have it's own flag, territory and international recognition. I'm lucky enough to have travelled a little and I saw reminders of numerous places I'd been, Cebu in the Philippines; Peru's jungle frontier, and the island towns of Hong Kong. The landscape also impressed me as I'd expected flat and it's nearly all vertical and heavily forested.

Dawn though brought light and a sense of expectation - not simply about my activities but also about Palau. With some sleep, I felt there should be more to it. After all, this country gained it's independence from the US in 1994, and that's not that long ago. It has a fascinating history, starting life as one of the Carolines Islands, a name like Transylvania in that we have probably all heard of it, but can not locate it on a map. The Germans were 'sold' Palau in 1899 - and the kept it until the end of WWI, when it was stripped from them and given to the Japanese. The era under Japanese management which ended with the closing days of WWII saw the modernification of Palau. Property ownership shifted to individuals from clans and it became a market economy with infrastructure. The Americans ran Palau post the war until 1994, and there are still many obvious ties. All this to say that Palau isn't some little atoll with 1 luxury hotel and a gravel airstrip.

After I dove today, I walked into town (it's about 3kms each way), and while warm, its cloudy and rainy, so not intolerable outside. The walk featured the gamut of human civilization, run down housing, abandoned cars, a general sense of disrepair and decay, stray dogs and chickens pecking the ground near the thing passing for a sidewalk. Superimposed on this were joggers from the national school, juiced up Honda Civic's with too loud mufflers and rap music, neatly trimmed verges and bougainvillea flowering everywhere. The air was thick with the humidity tropical life offers, silky smooth. That same air is acidic on any infrastructure, and even the newest looking buildings showed the mold and stains that are impossible to guard against.

So Palau is building up in a difficult environment. That's the spirit I saw in the people too, friendly and yet astute, genuine and ready to smile easily. This place isn't the night after one-too-many, it's working hard to work.