Our aim was to hike to Everest base camp - there are no roads or other ways to get there. It was two weeks and 100+ km's of climbing and descending the foothills and mountains in the Khumba region. Physically challenging due the remoteness, terrain and altitude gains, we "peaked" at 5500+M or 18,200+ feet above sea level, getting there on our own feet. The "major road" in the region is a rocky path varying from 10cm to 2M wide, shared with all locals, yaks, mules and other wildlife.
It was in many way an epic trek - the scenery was breathtaking around every bend, and movement from lush areas around the Hillary Bridges, to the more sparse landscapes to finally emerging above the tress and plant line to the last 'village' before Base Camp, Gorak Shep. The air got thinner and thinner and our resolve got stronger to make it. Unheated buildings, and lots of down-time to acclimatize meant two weeks of being quite cold, but warm through our shared commitment.
All along the roadway / path were Nepalese & Tibetan symbols and prayers and prayer wheels - the Sherpa people that are local to this place migrated here from Tibet over 500 years ago to escape marauders and instil these passes and villages with a peacefulness and serenity. As proud as they are in playing a role to help bring people from outside Nepal to the tops of their mountains, (Tenzing Norgay is a national icon) some remain sacred and rarely climbed, such as Ama Dablum below.
So what did I learn in the days where every turn of the head brought another stunning vista, and every step up and forward to the roof of the world emptied your lungs and made your legs sing ? A great deal actually.
It's worth noting that my son and I did this together with 13 other younger people. I can say that with conviction as I was 20 years older than the next oldest on the trip, and without exception they all impressed me. We'd all arrived there for varying reasons - spiritual, for the challenge, looking for new answers and just wanting to be in the moment, in the place. We got along very well, supported one another when things were tough, and laughed together endlessly. Our group was a mix of nationalities from seven countries. All were fit and fast - so much so that we had to slow down to allow altitude acclimatization to happen effectively.
Along the trek we were engaged in the moments presented as a group as well - those significant little events that resonated were coming across the climber memorials (We'd all seen the movies and read Krakauer's book); and playing football with the Monks from the Tengboche Monastery at 12,600 feet up. An incredibly special moment for me was playing goal in these games and watching the clouds clear around Everest for the first really good view. It's seemed like karma to let the Monks bearing down on me to score, having been rewarded with such a divine distraction, but alas karma favoured my old legs in that moment. The Monk's blessings on our prayer flags still freshly in my mind.
The solemn and the celebratory punctuated the trip. It was made ever more serene by the chance breaking of cloud cover - often at dawn and dusk - when it became apparent that our humble walking was happening under the watchful eyes of the local giants.
The Khumba region features four of the ten highest peaks in the world, Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, and Cho Oyu all 80000+ M high and being there with them is something I'll recommend to anyone. This place is incredibly spiritual, and more. It's very hard to get to, and the 103kms two week trek doesn't add to ease of access - but then all good things are worth the effort, aren't they ?
This is Everest, just above Base Camp, as it peaks out above the Khumba glacier and ice fall.
It was in many way an epic trek - the scenery was breathtaking around every bend, and movement from lush areas around the Hillary Bridges, to the more sparse landscapes to finally emerging above the tress and plant line to the last 'village' before Base Camp, Gorak Shep. The air got thinner and thinner and our resolve got stronger to make it. Unheated buildings, and lots of down-time to acclimatize meant two weeks of being quite cold, but warm through our shared commitment.
All along the roadway / path were Nepalese & Tibetan symbols and prayers and prayer wheels - the Sherpa people that are local to this place migrated here from Tibet over 500 years ago to escape marauders and instil these passes and villages with a peacefulness and serenity. As proud as they are in playing a role to help bring people from outside Nepal to the tops of their mountains, (Tenzing Norgay is a national icon) some remain sacred and rarely climbed, such as Ama Dablum below.
So what did I learn in the days where every turn of the head brought another stunning vista, and every step up and forward to the roof of the world emptied your lungs and made your legs sing ? A great deal actually.
It's worth noting that my son and I did this together with 13 other younger people. I can say that with conviction as I was 20 years older than the next oldest on the trip, and without exception they all impressed me. We'd all arrived there for varying reasons - spiritual, for the challenge, looking for new answers and just wanting to be in the moment, in the place. We got along very well, supported one another when things were tough, and laughed together endlessly. Our group was a mix of nationalities from seven countries. All were fit and fast - so much so that we had to slow down to allow altitude acclimatization to happen effectively.
Along the trek we were engaged in the moments presented as a group as well - those significant little events that resonated were coming across the climber memorials (We'd all seen the movies and read Krakauer's book); and playing football with the Monks from the Tengboche Monastery at 12,600 feet up. An incredibly special moment for me was playing goal in these games and watching the clouds clear around Everest for the first really good view. It's seemed like karma to let the Monks bearing down on me to score, having been rewarded with such a divine distraction, but alas karma favoured my old legs in that moment. The Monk's blessings on our prayer flags still freshly in my mind.
The solemn and the celebratory punctuated the trip. It was made ever more serene by the chance breaking of cloud cover - often at dawn and dusk - when it became apparent that our humble walking was happening under the watchful eyes of the local giants.
The Khumba region features four of the ten highest peaks in the world, Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, and Cho Oyu all 80000+ M high and being there with them is something I'll recommend to anyone. This place is incredibly spiritual, and more. It's very hard to get to, and the 103kms two week trek doesn't add to ease of access - but then all good things are worth the effort, aren't they ?
This is Everest, just above Base Camp, as it peaks out above the Khumba glacier and ice fall.
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